Sub Rosa

Evrim Mithat Dogu

Photography by Ashley Florence

April 27 2015

Sub Rosa is a wood fired bakery using a stone mill, brick oven, and heirloom strains of wheat to create traditional Eastern Mediterranean breads and pastries.

I want to make a bread that connects us to something beyond our own understanding. Basic sustenance. Pleasure. What has happened to our culture of the table? What has happened to our bread culture? Not just the non-existence of one here, but the collapse of bread cultures in the places where they first originated?

A wood fired bakery, by its very nature, proposesa radical reconsideration of the way we do things, of the way we eat. You mill the grain because you can connect to farmers who grow food for your community and you have a chance to discover what the land around you wants to provide. You can mill grains that have a long history, a forgotten story. Everything is done by hand because you have to be part of the process in the right way, you have to be connected to connect others. You build a fire because it is the most ancient of our technologies and it is the most obvious. Beautiful way to eat food.

Of course, all of this is about transformation and it is elemental. But it is also a paradox. Something so simple, that should need no discussion, and yet so timeless that it might give us some indication of new ways of living and being. I truly long for a life that might be shared around the table. And to provide the most basic feature of that table: bread.

Cilbir

(pronounced chil-buhr)
Poached Eggs in Garlic Yogurt
Serves 2

This was apparently my grandfather’s favorite breakfast.
Seemingly complex but remarkably simple.

  • 1/2 cup plain whole milk yogurt
  • 4 cloves of garlic
  • salt
  • 4 fresh eggs
  • boiling water
  • vinegar
  • 2.5 tbl butter
  • aleppo pepper*
  • dry mint*
  • sumac*

*available online or from your local Mediterranean market

Cilbir

  1. Bring yogurt to room temperature, while smashing garlic and salt to make a paste. Combine and whip with yogurt and leave to rest. Add more salt to taste.
  2. Place butter in small skillet and heat over medium low heat until barely sizzling, add red aleppo pepper and gently warm.
  3. Bring water to boil in a small deep pot, add a splash of vinegar and poach all four eggs until just set, yolks still runny.
  4. With a slotted spoon, remove eggs and place in ceramic dishes where garlic yogurt awaits. Take the slightly sizzling red butter and pour on top.
  5. Garnish with pinches of dried mint & sumac.
  6. Serve with generous slabs of a good hearty bread.